No matter how you slice it, a delicatessen is all about meat and lots of it: piled-high corned beef, pastrami, roast beef and turkey sandwiches. Stalzy’s doesn’t disappoint.
Our favorite Madison foods of 2011
With a boat in the building, a terrific-looking bar and Middleneck Cherrystones, Tempest Oyster Bar made a grand opening statement; with whitefish cakes with green onions, celery, red peppers, cooked capers and watercress over dill cream sauce they sealed the relationship.Stalzy’s Delicatessen set a new standard for Madison reubens with its exacting, nearly prim orchestration of Russian-style dressing, sauerkraut, swiss cheese, buttered rye bread, and choice peppered pastrami.Merchant went for the trifecta of grocery, restaurant, and destination bar and made it work; nibbling on 2-year-old aged cheddar melted into lavender honey-soaked bread while enjoying DJ Nick Nice and a glass of pinot blanc up at the bar is hard to beat.
Stalzy’s Deli brings a little of New York to Atwood
Corned beef and pastrami are really part of my DNA. My mom cooked a corned beef she learned to cook from her mom, in Brooklyn (when Brooklyn was more of a slum than hipster central). And my dad knew his brisket too, though that’s a more complicated story.
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What can you get for $10 at Stalzy’s Delicatessen?
The New York deli is possible to export, as Canter’s Deli in Los Angeles proved long ago. Madison isn’t overrun by NYC deli incursions, but the city is not innocent of them either; both Gotham Bagels and Ella’s Deli nod, in their own ways, to the New York deli. Stalzy’s Deli opened on Mother’s Day with a bid to buff out Madison’s deli deficiencies, not exactly recreating a mythical Tom’s Delicatessen—much of its food is not kosher, for example—but rather drawing on that form as inspiration while pulling from other traditions like Polish cuisine and the American ’50s diner aesthetic.
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